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Travel September 22, 2006
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Slave Trade Expedition to Africa
Part 22: Rhoum relaxation

Our last stop in Isles de Los was the island of Rhoum. This is the place most people visit in the islands because of its resorts and beaches. It was early in the afternoon and we were ready for food and drink. Our motorized bateau slid onto the beach and we waded ashore.

Excited about a nice meal with wine and cheese, Ken, Andrew, and I ignored the local food stalls and led our crew across the quarter-mile-wide island to the "French Side." Just what we hoped for: coral-colored sand, beach umbrellas, gentle surf, hillside cottages, and a French cafe. The chalkboard sign read:

Bienvenue au SoGué Resort

Location parasols - 10,000 GF

Prix matelas - 5,000 GF

Access plage obligative - 3,000 GF

Translation: You are welcome at the SoGué Resort so long as you rent umbrellas for $2, mattresses for $1, and pay 75¢ to walk on the beach. After a peek at the cafe menu and hard looks from discriminating faces, our team of nine headed back to the "African Side" where we felt more welcome.

The mysterious dancer of Rhoum Island
We selected drinks from coolers and snacks from plastic bowls on makeshift tables. I took my coke and cheese balls to a big rock ledge under a palm tree and relaxed with Moussa, son of the chief of Farenya.

Andrew (Hoose, our photographer) disappeared into the bush. Ken (Dr. Kelly, our archaeologist) sat on rocks next to the water conversing with a lovely black lady in fashionable capri pants. Dr. Baldi, Ahmed Soumah, and Bah Oury mingled among the local crowd. The boatman and his mate stuck close to the boat.

As it tends to do in Africa, the scene came alive with music and dance. African drums and voices sounded from a boombox in a food stall. Four young men struck up a soccer game, kicking a black and white ball between coconuts set up as goals.

A strange fellow in jeans, red shirt, multi-colored jacket, Rastafarian turban, and boots danced solo on the beach. His actions looked like a cross between Seinfeld 's Elaine dance and Tom Cruise's samurai moves. The longer he danced, the more clothes he shed. When he reached his underpants, he stopped and walked away.

A typical brightly colored bateau (boat) used to ferry tourists to and from Rhoum Island.
We left Rhoum at 3:30 pm and arrived back at Conakry an hour later. Ken, Andrew, and I had just enough time to shower and dress for our dinner with Baba-Gallé, the next mayor of Conakry.

(Next week: The Baba-Gallé Soirée)


The French resort of SoGué on Rhoum Island
The snackbar on the "African Side" of Rhoum Island

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