My Encounter with America
Part 13: Eating snake in Phong Zang
By Zadok Ekimwere
zomwere@hotmail.com

Zadok Ekimwere

Our visit to Pyong Yang was strategically arranged to coincide with workers' 45th anniversary. Most of the dignitaries were from Africa. Uganda was represented by a high profile delegation led by the vice president. In his entourage were ministers and senior government officials. Though we were not part of his entourage, we attended the celebrations in our own right as other very important guests. Ministers and senior political leaders came from other African countries.

I credit North Koreans for being precise and meticulous in their organizational arrangements because the celebration activities were neatly packed and tightly fitted in the grand scheme of the occasion. Though there were over 500 foreign guests, everything ran so smoothly. The tours started with visits to the Great Leader Kim Il Sung's birthplace. Though slightly remodeled, most of it was intact to reflect the modest background of the charismatic man. Whereas he was called the Great Leader, his son who was designated to inherit him was named the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il.

The demarcation line shows a sharp contrast between North Korea and South Korea. South Korea is a free and democratic society, but North Korea, like Cuba, is still tenaciously clinging to the last remnants of communism. On the South side were giant healthy looking U.S. marine troops. A number of them were black Americans, and they waved to us. In the North were tiny, mean- looking but well- equipped soldiers. Both sides were on alert as if to start a deadly war any time.

Kim Il Sung addressed the workers' occasion in the People's Hall. It was a colorful and contrived event full of pomp. Many received various awards in recognition of long- term distinguished labor service. They wore medals as if they were military honors.

Kim's address was almost spoiled by the frantic clapping. Every word received a thunderous standing ovation, which I could not understand. This furor I learned was intended to show how popular and invincible the Great Leader was. Another version at the time was that Kim Il Sung was quite senile and sickly, and he could not talk fluently without a cough. In order to cover that up, supporters had to keep clapping and ululating so that foreigners would not notice the problem.

Later we converged at the People's Square for the most impressive activities of the celebrations, which they consisted of colorful parades and carnivals by all categories of personnel - military, workers, institutions, students, and children trooping in very attractive formations. In the evening we were treated to soirees.

To crown the occasion, the Great Leader invited all guests for a state banquet with him at the People's Palace. Inside, the palace is gorgeous. The furniture, crockery, and ambience exuded modern opulence in a nation known to be unable to feed its citizens. The food was sumptuous and provided in excess.

At the after- party we were treated to the "Adder Liquor," the national drink served to state guests. It tastes like gin or rum, and it has a de- poisoned snake in it as a national identity. Once the drink is finished, the snakes are eaten.

In the beginning, we were shy to do as Romans do. But when the strong drink took its toll on us, we drank all the liquor and ravenously ate up all the snakes. They tasted like mackerels.

When I told my wife I ate snakes in Pyong Yang, she refused to kiss me for a long time thinking I was full of cobra poison, and almost divorced me when she discovered the snake drink I had hidden in my wardrobe.

What makes North Korea tick?

(Next week: Toying with the idea of conquering the world)