San Miguel de Allende
Part 2: A city of art
By Michael Orr mikeaorr@gmail.com

The halls of San Miguel's most famous art school, Belles Artes Photos by Morgan Young

San Miguel de Allende is known as an oasis of sorts for artists and artisans from across Mexico and the world. The artistic emphasis is not confined simply to the art schools or the past in San Miguel but permeates the life of the city and its residents. From the buildings and churches themselves to local residents selling handmade toys in the main square, an affinity for the creation of beautiful things runs through the city.

As in many parts of Mexico, apart from the resort- laden beaches, religious art holds a major market share in San Miguel. Crosses, candles, wooden figurines and images of all kinds fill markets and shops for residents to use in their practice of religion. As such, visitors and locals alike can find a limitless assortment of hand- carved wooden pieces.

Other art is less practical and more whimsical. Hundreds of foreign- born artists have made San Miguel their home and set up studios or easels in and around the city.

A San Miguel resident sells flower in the morning

Sketching, painting, and sculpting, these artists are constantly creating new work, often based on scenes from the city itself. Throughout the city are galleries dedicated to the work of such artists, where pieces can be admired and purchased. More common are small shops featuring the work of several artists who pooled resources to provide a space to showcase and offer their art.

The simplest form of art sales come from local residents who sell handmade dolls, baskets, toys, or any number of other small and useful objects.

Often traditionally dressed and in desperate need of compensation, these artisans work hard to sell their work, largely to visitors and tourists.

While their wares are simple in nature, they are intricate and beautiful in design. Rather than having vendors selling fake watches or sunglasses, San Miguel's squares and streets are far more intimate with residents selling their objects with pride.

Art as a focal point in San Miguel can be attributed largely to the success of the art schools flourishing in the mid- 20th century. Belles Artes, in particular, put San Miguel on the map in the art world and has allowed the city to draw artists, famous and anonymous, to create on its streets. The colorful walls of the city and the fantastically gothic façade of the Parroquia church in the center of town add to the serene feeling of a haven for the artistically inclined.

A traditionally dress woman sells dolls in the Plaza Principal

In a world with so many crises and worries, the art scene in San Miguel de Allende is a quieting and exciting change of pace. One need not buy anything to appreciate the ubiquity of the creative spirit, though there is no shortage of choices if shopping is on the agenda.

Taking a seat in the Plaza Principal reveals all sides of the story as one can watch the artists and their subjects with a backdrop of one of the most colorful cities in the world.